Posted on June 21, 2023
The northwest coast of Michigan's lower peninsula offers gorgeous views and unique adventures along the M-22 scenic highway.
Your trip starts in Empire, the headquarters of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. Just a block from downtown Empire, you'll find Empire Beach, dubbed one of the top 21 beaches in the world by National Geographic thanks to 450-foot bluffs and vast views of Lake Michigan. The beach includes a pavilion, outdoor grills and a large playgroun, plus the Robert H. Manning Memorial Lighthous, which was built in rememberance of a longtime Empire resident.
For lunch, pop over to family-owned Shipwreck Café just 1/2 mile from the beach. Grab a delicious deli sandwhich on homemade bread or choose from their selection of salads. Don't want to tear yourself away from the beach? Ask for lunch to go and pull off a beachside picnic.
Now it's time to cruise north for an afternoon visit to Glen Arbor. On your way, explore Sleeping Bear Dunes via Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive, a 7.5-mile scenic loop that offers 
multiple overlooks and short hikes that allow you to take in the incredible views of Glen Lakes, the dunes and Lake Michagan. If you'd rather explore on foot, you have many scenic hikes to choose from. (Either way, you'll need to buy a one-week park pass, but you'll use it again on this trip.)
By now, you've earned a hearty dinner. If you're looking for upscale dining with an unparalleled view, don't miss Blu on the shore of Lake Michigan, where you can take in panoramic views of Sleeping Bear Bay and the Manitou Islands. Or, for a casual dinner with a funky flair, try Art's Tavern, which has roots dating back to the Depression. If you have a pennant from your alma mater or favorite sports team, bring it along and they'll pin it to the ceiling with hundreds of others! And if the owner Tim is around, ask him the story behind the two-headed stuffed fish that watches over the place. (This place is cash or check only, so come prepared.)
It's been a big day. Time to check into your rental along Lake Leelenau and rest up for tomorrow's adventures!
Today you're going to see Sleeping Bear Dunes in a while new way by taking the Manitou Island Transit ferry in Leland out to South 
Mantiou Island. Be sure to check the daily schedule and reserve your tickets in advance. There's no food available on the island, so before heading to the ferry, stop in at Village Cheese Shanty in Fishtown. It's just steps away from the ferry landing, and they'll make you a sack lunch. (If you call in your order, you can make a quick pick-up and make it to the ferry on time.)
On the ferry, let the crew know if you'd like to sign up for one of two historic island tours they offer: the Farm and Schooldhouse Tour, or the Cedar and Shipwreck Tour. Both tours end at the South Manitou Island Lighthouse, which you can climb for a spectacular view of the while island.
(If you'd prefer an alternative activity today or you want to tack on an extra day, choose one or more of the many winery tours available in the area.)
The ferry will have you back to the mainland in time for dinner. Just a minute down the road at the head of Fishtown is The Cove on the bank of the Leland River with a view of Lake Michigan. The menu is teeming with signature dishes using local ingredients. Specialties include fresh Lake Michigan whitefish, hand-cut prime steaks and seafood chowder. And don't miss dessert - you earned it! Try the house-made, award-winning cherry pie, chocolate cherry cheesecake or key lime pie.
Just a few minutes away is The Jolli-Lodge, with a wide variety of rooms and cabins to choose from for the night. Located on the shore of Lake Michigan, this uniquely "up north" location often sees guests gathering for sunset cocktails on the lawn. If you're there on a Monday night, they will even have complimentary s'mores for you at the bonfire on the beach.
Welcome to Traverse City! This bustling, beautiful town always has a lot to offer visitors. (Check the city's sch
edule of events before you plan your visit.)
Today you'll visit Lighthouse Park and Mission Point Lighthouse, built in 1870 and decommissioned in 1933. Pay a small fee for a self-guided historical tour of the lighthouse, including a look at the 5th Order Fresnel lens, second floor museum and the stair climb to the tower (with an amazing view, of course).
In addition to the lighthouse, the park includes the historic Hessler Log Cabin plus miles of unspoiked trails with historic stories of their own. You can also walk along the beach or find a perch to do some birdwatching.
By now, the city is coming alive, and you're getting thirsty. Traverse City has several microbreweries to sample local beers. (For a fun twist, Paddle TC even offers brewery tours by bike or kayak.) If you want to start out at a brewery that has options for lunch, pick Rare Bird Brewpub. The place has a fun vibe and serves staff favorites like Dirty Bird Fries and Banh Mi.
When you're done sipping and shopping your way through the bustling downtown district, it's time to unwind and enjoy dinner. Artisan offers a fine dining experience inside or a more relaxed atmospehere on the waterfront on The Patio, and both menus include ingredients from local farms. If you're looking for more casual, American fare, pick Sleder's Family Tavern, established in 1882 and thought to be the oldest, continuously operated restaurant in Michigan. Learn about the restaurant's history, take in the nostalgic décor (including the original 21-foor mahogany bar, stamped tin ceiling and lots of conversation pieces), and be sure to kiss Randolph the Moose for luck.
Less than a 10-minute walk from downtown and located on the shore of Grand Traverse Bay is Island View Cottages, with lodging options ranging from small cabines to houses that can sleep 10. Antoher bayside option for the night is Alexandra Inn, a boutique hotel with a private beach, café and fitness center. It even has a rooftop terrace where you can sip a glass of wine, watch the waves roll in and contemplate your next visit to the captivating northwest shores of Michigan's lower peninsula.
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